Dulce de Leche.

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Dulce de Leche (from the New York Times Magazine):

1 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk (containing only milk, sugar, glucose and sodium bicarbonate), label removed.

Place the can in a saucepan and cover with water by at least 1 inch. Bring to a boil and then reduce to a simmer and cook for 3 hours, adding water as needed to keep the can submerged. Remove from the water and let cool for at least 1 hour before opening. Stir until smooth. Makes 1 1/4 cups. Adapted from Oscar Schwaner-Bonvallet.

Nifty

(Dulce de Leche Semi-frío)

2 teaspoons (about 1 1/4 -ounce envelope) unflavored gelatin powder

1 1/4 cups heavy cream

1cup dulce de leche, at room temperature

1/2 cup toasted almonds, finely chopped.

1. Pour the gelatin into a bowl. In a saucepan, heat 1/4 cup of the cream until steaming and add to the gelatin. Mix and let stand for 5 minutes.

2. Place the dulce de leche in a large bowl and whisk for 1 minute. Strain the gelatin mixture into the dulce de leche and whisk to incorporate.

3. In a medium bowl, beat the remaining cup of cold cream with an electric hand mixer until it holds soft peaks. Fold a third of the beaten cream into the dulce de leche to incorporate and fold in the remaining cream. Pour into 6 -cup ramekins or muffin cups and freeze until solid.

4. To release, dip the bottoms of the molds in hot water. Place each semi-frío on a plate and garnish with almonds. Serve immediately or leave out for 15 minutes for a softer texture. Serves 6. Adapted from Agua.

Panqueque

1 cup flour

2 teaspoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

4 large eggs

1 1/4 cups milk

1 tablespoon butter, more as needed

1 1/4 cups dulce de leche

Sugar for sprinkling

1 pint vanilla ice cream.

1. In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, sugar and salt. In another bowl, beat together the eggs and milk. Stir in the flour mixture until smooth. Cover and let rest at room temperature for 30 to 60 minutes.

2. Place a 7-inch crepe pan or nonstick skillet over medium heat. Melt 1 teaspoon butter to grease the pan; then ladle in 3 tablespoons batter, tilting the pan as you pour to coat the bottom. When it starts to brown, after about 30 seconds, flip and cook just until firm, 10 to 15 seconds. Use butter as necessary to keep the batter from sticking. Transfer to a plate to cool.

3. Spread 1 tablespoons dulce de leche two-thirds of the way from the bottom to the top of each crepe. Fold the left and right sides over by 1 inches and then loosely roll up the crepe from bottom to top, finishing with the top flap of the crepe tucked under. The rolled crepes can be covered and refrigerated for up to 8 hours.

4. To serve, preheat a broiler and arrange the panqueque on a broiling dish. Sprinkle with sugar and heat until caramelized. Place 1 or 2 crepes on each plate and top with vanilla ice cream. Serves 6 to 12.

NOTE: Good-quality dulce de leche, like La Salamandra, can be purchased at Dean & Deluca or at www.artisansweets.com.